1.25.2016

A&C


Monoprix cap - Undercover by Jun Takahashi jacket & cargo pants - DRKSHDW tee - Converse all star zipped sneakers


J'ai la chance de faire un taf où je peux à peu près porter ce que je veux mais certaines pièces restent compliquées à poser au bureau (dans le pub dans mon cas). C'est un peu le cas de ma tenue de ce weekend, du Undercover comme je l'aime mais qui dénotera à la régie ^^

On retrouve donc deux pièces caractéristiques du travail original de Jun Takahashi. La veste en velours (FW05 - Arts & Crafts) reprend le fit d'un buste court, aux épaules serrées sans cintrage, des manches slim et une utilisation poussée du zip (il y a la dose ^^). Le fait d'avoir des stries à l'horizontal est aussi une touche Undercover. Le funnel collar, ainsi que le corps est entièrement doublé en fourrure noire. Le pants est lui aussi intéressant selon moi. Il est entre le legging et le cargo pants, un fit très fuselé avec les poches sur les côtés. Ce qui le rend très "UC", c'est le fait d'avoir incorporé une chemise à la taille, on peut voir ici la partie "musique" de son inspiration avec les rock bands japonais. Dernier point, la face est façon tweed alors que le back est à bande.

Rapide focus sur le messenger bag Visvim en patchwork, plus connu sous la réf' Ballistic E-cat 18L messenger bag, il commence à vieillir mais boostera toujours une tenue (en plus d'être vraiment pratique). Plus de photos dans cet article.

Pour finir, une paire de Converse Chuck Taylor All Star (bon je n'avais pas celles classiques noir & blanches sur la photo, oubliées à Paris, ça aurait été plus optimal)et une casquette Monoprix en laine mélangée (je conseille pour 6e en soldes, on peut difficilement faire moins cher)

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Some pictures from the past weekend with a no hidden Undercover influence. I sometimes speak about the Jun Takahashi's work and how I can like what he did/does. 

I wear a rare vintage piece from Undercover who is fairly well known for taking their inspiration from music. The pants really fit in the mold, taking their cues from punk)inspired bondage pants and adding a bunch of unique detailing.
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Fabric is 100% acrylic and feels like a woolen type of fabric to me. There are two primary patterns: a herringbone pattern on the front and a striped pattern on the back. Then of course you have the shirt detail, where a shirt of the same material and pattern is actually sewn onto the waistband of the pants. You can’t take the shirt off. Instead, the appearance is that you have a shirt tied around your waist. Undercover actually revisited this silhouette again in 2012ss, but with different materials. Other details here include zip fly and cargo style pockets.
About jacket, it is very rare vintage piece too. This comes from their fall-winter 2005 collection, called Arts and Crafts. Although Undercover have had a number of strong seasons, this one is one of my particular favorites, mainly because of the extremely dark aesthetic. Most pieces produced were black, in the characteristic slim fitting UC silhouette. Quality and detailing, as always, were extremely strong this season. Often when people talk about “vintage” Undercover, they are referencing this season, Scab, and the But Beautiful collections. It was Arts and Crafts, however, that really put UC on the map in the west.
This jacket is very much in the vein of the black colorways of the season, and should easily integrate with similarly “dark” designers like Rick Owens or Julius. 

Exterior is a 60/40 cotton/polyester mix, done in a horizontal black corduroy. Most corduroy fabrics are usually vertical. Production with a horizontal cord is surprisingly rare, but a nice little switch UC pulls here. There were a few other corduroy pieces produced this season, all of them similarly horizontal. Interior fabric is an acrylic faux fur, quite warm and insulating. Sleeves are also insulated. As such, this is definitely a winter jacket.

Lots of other details here too. There is darting throughout on the front and back, keeping the fit slim but still allowing a good range of motion. There is a large zipper going around the sides and back of the jacket with riri pulls on both sides. Opening it up, there are side pockets on the front and one large pocket on the rear. There are two additional size pockets on the front, with all pockets lined in a soft fleece material. Jacket has zip and snap closure, going quite high on the neck. You can snap the neck all the way up if you like, or leave open for a nice asymmetrical look. Sleeves also have zips for adjusting
 


 






Visvim patchwork Ballistic E-cat 18L messenger bag
--> Undercover by Jun Takahashi - patterned pants w/shirt detail - 100% acrylic wool like
Undercover - corduroy faux fur  jacket - arts & crafts - FW 2005

3 commentaires:

  1. merci pour le plan casquette ;). Julien.

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  2. J'aime beaucoup ton look! Emi

    https://sleeve7.com/fr/
    https://shirtsofcotton.com/fr/

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